TSODILO HILLS

In the flat barren landscape of the western Kalahari, some 50km west of the village of Sepupa on the banks of Panhandle, the sheer quartzite cliff-faces of the four Tsodilo Hills rise majestically above the surrounding savannah. The four hills form a line and are referred to by the San people as "The Male" - the largest hill which reaches a height of 410 metres above the surrounding plain; "The Female" - a smaller hill, about 300m, but has an overall area of almost three times that of The Male; and the next in size of 40m is referred to as "The Child" and lies about 2km away from The Female. Beyond these three is a much smaller unnamed knoll, located 2.2km northwest of The Child, which legend has it was The Male Hill's first wife who was discarded when he met and married the taller Female Hill.

The enigmatic and spiritual quality of the hills was noted by the famous author Sir Laurens van der Post in his book "The Lost World of the Kalahari" (see usefull books and readings). It was here that Sir Laurens's cameras inexplicably jammed, his tape recorders ceased functioning and his party was attacked by swarms of bees three mornings running. When he learned from his guide that two of his party had disturbed the Tsodilo spirits by ignoring long-established protocol and killing a warthog and a steenbok while approaching the sacred hills, van der Post buried a note of apology beneath the panel of paintings that now bears his name and it was apparently accepted.

Rock paintings at Tsodilo Hills
Tsodilo is a place of special significance to the San who have been living here for thousands of years. They believe the hills are a resting place for the spirits of the deceased and that their various gods live in caverns within the Female Hill, from where they rule the world. The most sacred place is near the top of the Male Hill; legend has it that the first spirit knelt here to pray after creating the world. This was when the rocks were still soft and the San believe you can still see the impression of his knees in the gray rock. It is believed that these gods will cause misfortune if anyone hunts or causes death near the hills. The Harnbukushu, who also live in the area, believe the hills are where God lowered man to earth.

Archaeological studies have revealed that this area has been occupied by humans for at least 100,000 years. There are paintings on all the hills that cover 9 km2 of rock in a 22 km2 area. The best sites are at the north end of the Female hill.

The fact that Tsodilo is totally removed from all other rock art sites in southern Africa adds to its aura of mystery and magic. The nearest known site is 250 km away. What is more, the paintings at Tsodilo are generally unlike others in the southern African region in both style and the incidence of certain images. Many are isolated figures and over half depict wild and domestic animals, particularly the eland. Some are scenes, but few seem to tell a story. Many are outlined schematic designs and geometrical patterns. It is almost certain that most were painted by the Bushmen.

Tsodilo Hills
One of the most common images at Tsodilo is of schematic men with erect penises. These paintings could represent the concepts of heat, energy, creation and growth and may be associated with the trance dance. This dance produces an altered state of consciousness in which, the Bushmen believe, the dancer can heal the sick and control the natural and supernatural. The paintings depicting a mythological snake may corroborate this, as snakes in Bushman and Bantu mythology are associated with rain.

The schematic patterns may also have meanings - perhaps to do with creating rain to bring health and prosperity to all living things. Even the painting sites chosen on the hills would seem to point to their spiritual and religious significance. Many are on high, inaccessible cliffs, with commanding views over the landscape. This could indicate an authority and control over the sky and earth, or protection for those living on earth. It would seem that little or nothing about the paintings was haphazard.

Archaeological research at the hills has recently challenged previously held ideas about human migrations to southern Africa.

Scientists have identified the shorelines of a small lake. Among the rare artifacts found there are some animal bone fish hooks dating back more than 20,000 years. Other archaeological discoveries include the location of mines among the hills. There is evidence that between AD 800 and 1,100 the people at Tsodilo were engaged in mining black hematite, and possibly mica, and trading it through the extensive trade networks of Africa.

The Tsodilo Hills is one of the most historically significant rock art sites in the world with 500 individual sites charting thousands of years of human habitation. There is a small San encampment nearby as well as a village near the Male Hill inhabited by the Hambukushu people. Guides are available at these settlements.

The track to Tsodilo Hills is extremely rough and suitable only for four-wheel-drive vehicles. The turning off the main Maun/Shakawe road is just south of Sepupa and is indicated with a National Museum signpost. There are no designated campsites in the area and camping is permitted anywhere, but again, be sure to treat Tsodilo with respect.

AVAILABLE HOLIDAY PACKAGES TO THIS REGION:

Botswana Elephant Safari (BWE) - 14 nights holiday package This 14 night / 15 day trail forms a circular route around the Okavango Delta, starting in Kasane and ending in Victoria Falls, Zambia.  The Elephant Trail offers a great value camping adventure through three countries - Botswana, Namibia and Zambia. ELEPHANT SAFARI DEPARTURE DATES 2008 Rate : 14 Nights from $2,620.00 [per person sharing]

Botswana Guided Lodge Tour - 11 nights holiday package This 11 night / 12 day safari starts in Kasane and ends in Maun. Rate : 11 Nights from $3,900.00 [per person sharing]